The Lid Spec: Why Scent Dies in the Seal, and the Three Numbers That Decide It
The most common complaint we hear from customers is that a candle smells strong in the store and barely registers a month later, even though
The most common complaint we hear from customers is that a candle smells strong in the store and barely registers a month later, even though
EN 15494 sets the EU candle label floor: one general warning sign plus four mandatory specific warnings. Most supplier spec sheets quote EN 15493 and EN 15426 and skip it. Here are the three items to pull before you commit.
A coconut-soy candle is not soy wax with coconut added. The 70/30 split sets your fragrance load ceiling, and the burn test is the only thing that proves it.
The water in a candle jar is a combustion byproduct, not a defect. The droplet on the glass is the same water the flame makes, and where it lands tells you something about the burn.
A wick mushroom is unburnt carbon, not a cosmetic flaw. Wick size, trim length, and fragrance load set the spec; the burn test confirms it.
Most candle makers treat curing as a waiting room. Set the jar on a shelf, close the lid, come back in a week, hope the
Frosting is the most debated surface finish in container candles, and most of the debate is misdirected. Everyone asks how to stop it. The better
Breakage in transit is not a mystery. It is one of three things: the cushion is too thin, the jar is moving inside the box,
Most pour-temperature guides hand you a single number. 135F for soy, 175F for paraffin, done. That number is a midpoint, and the midpoint is where
Every candle storage guide eventually lands on the same two lines: store below 50% RH, keep humidity low. Neither number tells you what actually happens